Four Boxes Checked

Who goes to Cape Town and doesn’t visit the World Cup Stadium?  Well, I’m not sure…but I wasn’t about to be one of those people.  SarahCatherine and I couldn’t quite find information about the tours of the stadium, but we knew they existed, and were willing to risk a visit to see the outside of the stadium at least.  Thus, per usual, we took the Jammie into the city and then followed the tourist signs heading towards the World Cup Stadium. 

At last, we crossed over a bridge and could see the doughnut in the distance. 

(Green Point Stadium in the distance)

Right in front of us was the Truth Café.  Now we had also gone into the city to visit this café, and here’s why…In SarahCatherine’s South African class, she had learned all about this incident that had taken place in the early 2000’s.  Basically, a hotel was to be built on Prestwich Street.  However, while digging, an unregistered graveyard for outcasts in the 18^th and 19^th century was discovered.  Many bodies were found.  Yet, the workers continued to excavate the bodies from their proper places.  This angered much of the city.  While the hotel was being built, and while the city decided what to do with these bodies that had been boxed individually, they stored the boxes in multiple places.  The city protested and rallied that these bodies deserved to be properly buried, and even put back in their place.  The city decided to build a memorial on a triangular plot of land close to Prestwich Street.  Soon, however, they didn’t feel it was necessary to continue paying for the upkeep of the memorial, and so sold it to a coffee shop.  The Truth Café is attached to the memorial, and there are wooden slats you can look through to see stacks of the boxes filled with bones.  

(Boxes on shelves)

The café told the history of the old graveyard and what had happened to the people.  But enough of the café, we hadn’t even gotten there yet.

After spotting the stadium far away, we walked along the ‘Fan Walk’, which is basically just the long walk from the city of Cape Town along certain roads all the way to the stadium.  On our walk we saw the Rockwell, the hotel built on Prestwich Street, along with swanky hotels and restaurants that had presumably been built and restored before the city hosted the World Cup. 

(The Rockwell on Prestwich Street)

Continuing on the Fan Walk, we entered Green Point, and finally reached the outside of the stadium. 

(Green Point and Stadium)

It was huge, like a large silver ring. 

(Stadium)

To the left of the stadium was the old soccer stadium, surrounded by rusted fence with only about ¼ of the stands left. 

(The old soccer stadium)

We stared in awe at the new stadium, and then pulled ourselves together to find out about the tours.  Passing us was a worker and possibly a security guard driving in a golf cart.  We flagged them down and asked about the tours.  As we had suspected, there were currently no tours because the stadium was under maintenance.  The guard then, however, told us that if we wanted to get inside the stadium, we could make it happen.  He told us to meet him farther down at a gate by the ticket sales, and then scooted ahead of us.  As we walked to meet him, SarahCatherine and I decided we would give him R100, as the regular tickets were around R50.  We discussed the deal with the guard outside the gates, and then he let us in.  It was a quick showing, maybe 5 minutes tops, but was well worth it.  We walked into the stadium at about the halfway high point and surveyed the field. 

(Inside the Stadium)

It was beautiful and the stands seemed to ascend forever.  After a few minutes of soaking up the scene, our guard scampered back to the gate and commanded us to follow. 

(SarahCatherine and I. You can't see us but you know we're there)

We paid the man and then walked away with our heads a bit higher.  As Ida Cooper, our program leader, told us later that week while we were out to tea, we were true South Africans now because we had been a part of a shady bribe.  I won’t lie, it’s a damn good story, and I felt like a bad ass.

After our illegal tour, or shall I say viewing, of the stadium, we headed back to the Truth Café.  We each ordered a muffin and then I ordered a latte.  The café isn’t just well known because of the memorial, but also because they roast their beans right there in the café, across from the cash register.  Also, as another customer explained to me, they don’t have that ‘bite’, or the bitterness that coffee normally has.  The barista made a swan out of my milk in the cup. 

(Swan Latte)

It was very impressive.  After we enjoyed our breakfast and drinks outside, I decided to buy a bag of beans to bring home.  With this bag of beans, I got a free cup of coffee.  I thought it just meant regular coffee, but the worker let me get a latte.  This time I was prepared, and told the barista to give me the coolest design he could do.  He drew me a face in a regular mug, and then poured it into a to-go cup for me.

(Face Latte)

It was insanely good.  The couple behind me also ordered a latte, and he drew them a peacock.  

(Peacock)

SarahCatherine and I just stood in awe.  Then he took a request and we told him to make a scene of Table Mountain, which he did. 

(Devil's Peak, Table Mountain, Lion's Head)

It was greatly entertaining to watch him decorate coffee, but we had to continue on our way.

(Our artistic barista)

The final stop down town was to visit Bo-Kaap.  We didn’t have to go very far to get to the Muslim community of Cape Town.  Bo-Kaap, a neighborhood, is well known because of the way the houses are decorated. 

(Bo-Kaap)

Most of the houses are painted in solid bright colors, and are lined up in rows because they all connect. 

(Bo-Kaap)

Pictures can’t quite do the houses justice.  They were beautiful.

(Bo-Kaap)

After an extremely long day in the blazing sun and on our feet, we rested for a bit at the apartment, and then got dressed and headed down to our favorite place for nachos, Lyra’s.  After dinner it was show time.  One of the people we met here told us we had to go to a performance at the Baxter Theatre, the UCT theatre, before we left. 

(Baxter Theatre)

So, SarahCatherine and I bought tickets to ‘Some Like it Vrot’.  It was a musical comedy, and that’s all we knew. 

(Musical Comedy)

Inside the theatre it was very old timey, dark red velvet cushions and gold colored handles and trimmings. 

(Weathered after our long day)

The play began.  It was only after a few minutes had passed that SarahCatherine and I realized the play was not wholly in English.  No, it also had Afrikaans in it. 

(The Cast)

We got the gist of the plot, and some parts were very funny, but the majority of the comedy was in Afrikaans.  It was quite an experience.

Four activities checked off the list this day.

One of the ‘New Seven Natural Wonders of the World’

            For those of you who are unaware (which is probably most of you), Table Mountain was just voted one of the ‘New Seven Natural Wonders of the World’.  Everyone here says that you should climb the mountain before you leave Cape Town.  As I have already hiked up Devil’s Peak, the highest peak in Cape Town, and Lion’s Head, the only mountain left was Table Mountain.  Everyone said it was a cinch, a short and beautiful hike.  People also said the view from the cable cars, which can take you up and down Table Mountain, were well worth the money.  Thus, SarahCatherine and I decided we would climb up the mountain, then take the cable car down it.

            Monday morning we made our way to the bottom of the mountain via the Kirstenbosch Gardens.  The first fault of the day was our transport to the gardens, and as luck would have it, faults would continue to roll in this day.  We were oblivious to the fact that the gardens were not on Main Road, so were forced to shell out real money for a taxi.  Then, we had to pay entrance into the gardens, only to leave them almost immediately after finding the trail out.  The morning was extremely cloudy and it would surely rain, but we knew if we didn’t climb the mountain the day we said we would, then we never would.  Plus, we figured since it was a moderate hike that we would then have plenty of time to shower and then make it to a brewery tour at 2 pm.

            At 9:20 am, our hike of Table Mountain began.  We started on Smuts Track, which turned into ­­­Yellowwood Trail, and eventually Skeleton Gorge. 

(Start of the hike)

The beginning was completely uphill, almost vertical.  There were steep steps and ladders, and we found ourselves already drenched in sweat and craving water some 10 minutes in.  The uphill was grueling, but I was still excited for the view on the top, and about the fact that we were climbing a new wonder of the world. 

(Ladders galore)

By the time we reached the spot where the gorge really began, we were lost.  The trail of ladders and steps ended, and in front of us was a small stream coming down the mountain.  A few girls in front of us had stopped as well, and we all began searching for the continuation of the trail.  Luckily, SarahCatherine and I had briefly said hello to a group of hikers behind us, who had hired a guide, and so waited for them to reach us and followed them on the hike.  Turns out the trail continued up through the stream of what looked like beer. 

(Climbing up the stream)

We climbed from rock to rock up the stream, getting our feet wet as we ascended, finally reaching the path again after a bit.  While we all rested, the guide warned SarahCatherine and I about walking around on the mountain on our own, and basically told us we were stupid to be hiking alone and on a super cloudy day.

(Beer water)

            Alas, despite the guide’s advice, we continued.  At the top of Skeleton Gorge there was a map of all the routes on Table Mountain.  Oddly, however, the map showed also the time it would take an average person to get from A to B.  We thought it a bit curious that people had told us the hike was so easy, but that it took 3 hours from where we stood to get to the cable car. 

(The map that saved our lives)

We continued on, although our prospects of an easy hike were dwindling, choosing the route that would take us to the Atlantic Ocean side of the mountain.  Soon we came to a reservoir, made of the same beer water. 

(Reservoir on the mountain)

At first it was ‘Wow, this is so serene and beautiful.  How odd that there is another set of mountain ranges on top of this mountain.’  But after a few hours it became ‘Who the fuck told us this was easy?  Why is there no one else around?  Where is the trail?  Why is the mountain so hilly and not a literal table?’

            Now don’t get me wrong.  The hike really was beautiful.  There was greenery everywhere, these beautiful rocks of gray and white, and at some points of the hike we could see not only the Atlantic Ocean, but also the Indian. 

(Indian Ocean)

It was a gorgeous hike and it was very serene, as it seemed like we were the only civilization on the mountain, but it wasn’t what we signed up for.  At one point on the hike we actually got lost.  Couldn’t find where the trail continued and so turned off and walked through a marshy path until we realized there was not way it was the path.  Honest to God I was thinking to myself ‘Why didn’t I tell anyone we were coming up here?  Why has God chosen to punish me less than a week before I leave?’  Thankfully we had taken a picture of the map and were able to look back on it multiple times during the hike.

(There is a small trial in the picture, the last we had to climb before we reached civilization)

            At last, after four hours of almost non-stop uphill hiking, as it turns out we didn’t really get to the ‘table’ part of Table Mountain until about the last five minutes, we reached the cable cars. 

(Four hours later)

There were families picnicking on the mountain, walking around in their jeans and flats, and eating their delicious snacks.  SarahCatherine and I gawked.  We had just climbed for four hours to get here while others were eating in the extremely fancy dining area and shopping at the stores.  We took a quick look at the view from the top, which really was amazing, and then finally took the cable car down the mountain, which had an amazing view as well.

(View from the top)

(Cape Town from the bottom of the cable cars)

(Cable car)

Our feet back on the real ground, we taxied to the UCT campus in the city and then took a Jammie back to our apartment, napped and showered, and then headed to a dinner of lasagna, salad, and garlic bread and some friends’ house.  I think it’s pretty obvious we didn’t make it back in time for the brewery tour.

Indian to Atlantic

             Activities on Friday were a bit more hectic than on Thursday.  For starters, the South Africa versus Australia cricket match SarahCatherine and I had planned to attend, that we thought started at 10:30 am, started much earlier.  We were on a run that morning, and only found out the game had started after running past a TV showing the match.  Quickly we got ready and took a mini bus to the stadium.  The line for tickets was extremely long.  Apparently, the matches against Australia were supposed to last for five days, but because of the number of points already scored, today was the last day of matches.  Thus, everyone and their sisters were trying to get into the game, and everyone who had bought tickets for later games had come to this game.  We waited in the sun for about 30 minutes to get our tickets, and when we finally got into the stadium, got to watch about 20 minutes of the game. 

(Newlands Cricket Stadium)

It was confusing and short lived, but well worth it.  For those of you who are just as confused as I am, let me lay my knowledge of the game on you.  Basically you have a batter, like in baseball, who has to hit a ball pitched to him by a running start from the ‘pitcher’.  The batter is standing in front of a white stick in the ground that he does not want the ball to hit.  His goal is to hit the ball far away from the center of play so that he can run back and forth between these white poles that are on both sides of the field, while his teammate that was standing across the way by the other pole does the same thing. 

(South Africa up at bat)

And there are something called ‘wickets’ which are the number of balls you get or something to hit.  Basically, South Africa won the tournament against Australia by 8 wickets, whatever that means.

            After interviews with each teams’ captain, we sat in the sun while the rest of the stands cleared out.  Teams of young cricket players came onto the pitch and started numerous games on the field, cheered on by the remaining audience in the stands. 

(Little cricket players)

We watched the kids attempt to swing their bats and pitch for a bit, then cleared out ourselves and got ready for the beach.  SarahCatherine and I had planned to go to Kalk Bay, a beach on the Indian Ocean side of South Africa, but were oblivious to how far away it was.  All of a sudden we were taking a R250 cab, driven by a much too talkative man who was definitely on drugs, to a beach almost 30 minutes away.  We got there by 3 pm, and found that the beach wasn’t much of a beach at all.  The main reason we had come to Kalk Bay was to eat at the Brass Bell, so the beach close to that was very small.

            Kalk Bay was wonderful regardless.  Our crazy taxi driver dropped us off by the restaurant, we made reservations for later, and then headed onto the docks. 

(Kalk Bay)

As it turns out, the wind was fierce and we both kept our pants and sweatshirts on, but lay on the dock, soaking up the sun and the smell of the Indian Ocean.  Then we explored the bay, walking along the numerous docks and admiring the colorful fishing boats, poking our heads into small shops on the main road, discovering a man building trinkets out of wire, and finally touching our feet into the very cold water. 

(Fishing Boats)

(Indian Ocean)

After touring around a bit, we made our way back to the restaurant. 

(The Brass Bell)

It was right on the water, and our table was on the upper deck, all the walls made of windows, and our table right against the window facing out into the ocean. 

(Our table)

We ordered the Brass Bell’s classic fish and chips, and sat in awe at the ocean crashing against the man made pool below us.  The sun streamed in through the windows as we enjoyed our seafood dinner.

(Fish and Chips)

            The ride back to town we enjoyed the frightening stories from our wacky cab driver, who I am now convinced was not sober in the least (don’t worry Mom, we got home safely).  Dessert that night was the delicious chocolate cake from Charly’s Bakery!

            Chocolate cake was also breakfast Saturday.  Then it was off to the Old Biscuit Mill.  Every Saturday from 9am-3pm, the Old Biscuit Mill area, a square of boutiques and overpriced shops, plays host to the ‘Goods Markets’ of crafts and food.  This was our last Saturday attending, as next Saturday I will be busy packing up 4.5 months of my life into two suitcases and two carry-ons.  SarahCatherine and I shopped in the crafts market first, full of jewelry and clothes, and then toured through the permanent shops.  Finally, we entered the ‘Neighbour Goods Market’, a white tent packed with food venders. 

(Sheep in the food market)

Each vender has a theme that inspires the way they set up their stands, be it Italian, German, etc.  I’ve sampled many foods here over the past four months, but decided on a brat with mustard and a cold beer for my last day. 

(Brat and beer)

It was delicious.  We ate at the makeshift tables (doors on their sides), and sat on make shift benches (wooden planks placed on overturned buckets).  The tables were littered with white candles stuffed in old wine bottles, with empty glasses filled with flowers hanging from the ceiling. 

(Table at the mill)

After our main course it was time for a dessert of pomegranate frozen yogurt with unlimited toppings in the sunshine, and then one last stop at the craft tent for some gifts.

(Frozen yogurt)

            We took the minibus home and by 2 pm had taken a taxi to the Atlantic Ocean side of South Africa, settling ourselves on Camps Bay, a small beach set below Lion’s Head, a mountain I climbed to watch the sun set, and Table Mountain, a mountain I would climb in two days time. 

(Lion's Head)

We rested at Camps Bay for four hours.  I wrote in my journal, read magazines, but mostly people watched.  There was a beach volleyball game going on that reminded me of Misty May and her partner from the Olympics.  The women were playing in doubles and were very intense about the game.  Next to the nets was a massage on the beach tent. 

(Table Mountain-The Twelve Apostles)

Surprisingly, I saw many people going into that tent.  The beach was the hub for all vendors.  Not only were there massages on the beach, but men were walking up and down the beach selling all sorts of things.  Some carried coolers with cold drinks and ice creams, others sold beach toys, and still others walked around showing people, mostly picking out the obvious tourists, typical ‘African’ crafts.  We were harassed multiple times. 

(Atlantic Ocean)

There were families and venders on the shore, paddle boarders and kayakers in the water, and paragliders above me, coming down from Lion’s Head.  In fact, one even landed on the beach!

(Paraglider from Lion's Head)

            By 6 pm, we had had enough sun for the day and headed back to Rondebosch with warm skin and headaches from dehydration.  On the other side of the mountain, however, the sun had already set, leaving behind a dark and cold apartment to return to.  But the day was a success, as was the day before.  Thus, Sunday, when it rained, we were able to relax, having fulfilled many of the activities on our checklist.

Tourists in Cape Town

Folks, I am officially done with school at the University of Cape Town (a blog about my school is soon to come…very late indeed).  This Wednesday I took my last exam, for my Differential Equations class at 8 am.  That day, though it is becoming spring here in South Africa, it poured rain, not the best weather to celebrate the end of school.

Thursday was a different story.  SarahCatherine, my roommate, Evan, a boy from my spring break trip I took early in September, and I headed downtown (that’s Cape Town) on the school shuttle, the Jammie.  First stop was the Mount Nelson Hotel.  The hotel was immaculate.  After crossing under huge white pillars, we made our way up a drive sided with palm trees until we made it to the main building of the hotel, a pastel pink colored mansion with light blue shutters and trimmings. 

(White pillars of the hotel)

(Me, Evan, and SarahCatherine en route to the hotel)

After entering the lobby, decorated with mirrors, chandeliers and plush furniture, we were led onto the veranda to have morning tea. 

(Lobby)

(Lounge area)

Never in my life have I gathered for tea with friends, and never in my life have I experienced such an extravagant event.

 

(Veranda)

I ordered a classic Rooibos tea, found only in South Africa.  Then we waited for our tea, as our waitress graced us with cubes of sugar, regular and brown, a cup of milk, and a jar of jelly. 

(Sugar cubes)

Our teas came in large kettle shaped glasses, the leaves steeping in the middles of the jugs, and had to steep for two turns of the hourglass our waitress had brought us. 

(Rooibos tea and timer)

While we waited for our tea to be ready, the waiters brought our snacks.  We had thought we would receive a small plate of crumpets to eat while drinking our tea.  What we received was a full breakfast, lunch, and dessert.  We had a plate of crumpets, chocolate croissants, ham stuffed croissants, multiple kinds of sandwiches (egg salad, cucumber, and salmon), doughnuts, and lots of other desserts. 

(Chocolate croissant and crumpets)

(Ham stuffed croissants)

(Sandwiches and desserts)

Needless to say, after sampling each of the treats brought to us, and each others’ teas, we were all stuffed, and it was a bit harder for me to act so classy.  

(Rooibos tea)

After paying practically nothing for what seemed like two full meals, we made our way into the sun and explored a bit of the hotel, walking to the pool, spa area, and lastly the gift shop.

(The outside of the hotel)

From morning tea, we headed down Government Street, a walking path fenced by trees meeting above the path to form a sort of archway, making our way to the Holocaust Museum. 

(Government Street)

The museum was a small corridor of pictures, information, and memorabilia.  The interesting parts of the museum were those in which apartheid was paralleled with the Holocaust.

After the Holocaust Museum, it was almost 3 pm, so we walked over to Charly’s Bakery. 

(Charly's Bakery-Mucking Afazing)

This bakery makes cakes like on the U.S. shows ‘Cake Boss’ and ‘Ace of Cakes’ and actually has its own show here in South Africa.  The building is covered in colorfully painted hearts, stars, butterflies, and little cupcake figures, with a pink and white striped tarp over the patio.  The inside was filled with glitter, different designed cupcakes, brownies, and cookies, decorated chandeliers, and noise as the cake decorators and customers shouted around. 

(A glimpse of Charly's)

SarahCatherine and I had preordered a ‘Wicked Chocolate’ cake with rose petals.  We picked up the cake, in a pink and white striped box, and sat down to rest our feet, taking in the ambience of the place. 

(Wicked Chocolate Cake)

I bought a few other treats and then we moved on to our final stop.

(Red Velvet cupcake, Mini cakes with fondant-'eat me', 'fuck')

The Green Market Square.  The square is a Mecca of souvenirs and gifts.  Shops were set up with four poles, each with their own makeshift walls and ceilings of tarp, fabric, or no ceiling and walls at all.  The tables were hidden in jewelry, wood figures, stone figures, paintings, and numerous other trinkets.  Everything was fascinating to look at, yet it was not the place to just stand and watch.  Each vender continued to harass us, ‘Sister, I see you are looking at these, take what you like,’ or ‘For you, sister, a special price.’  I was more than overwhelmed. 

(One of the many venders I bought from)

(Another vender)

The market was busy and crowded, as the venders were starting to pack up.  Eventually the tree of us got into rhythm, helping each other negotiate down the prices.  The trick is this…they name a price.  You go much lower.  They say no.  You tell them you just met some one who could give you that price.  They say no again, and most often name a price lower than their first offer, but still higher than yours.  You say you will not pay more than some price, a little higher than you first offered.  They say no.  You leave and more often than not they call you back and take your deal.  We proceeded to bargain in this manner until most of the shops had closed down, and it was dinnertime.

The three of us walked back down Long Street and caught a Jammie home where SarahCatherine and I finally put our feet up and planned our next day of activities.

(Long Street)

9 days until I'm in Oregon!